Macedonia’s Lake Ohrid is famous for its trout. In the chilly, mountain depths of these waters, theohridska pastrmka (pastrmka means trout) has swum since time immemorial, and has been fished here since Neolithic times. It’s one of the only European fish to have existed since before the last ice age, and the species is probably some million years old. Reportedly, it’s delicious. The problem is, it’s almost extinct. That doesn’t stop restaurants here from serving it. Neither do the police, though it’s officially illegal to fish for it or sell it.
This is the “Macedonian Riviera,” and the eating here in Ohrid town has been almost uniformly excellent, with lots of cheap, pleasant restaurants dotting the waterfront and the side streets. We’ve been avoiding ohridska, but eating just about every other watery fauna we can get our forks into. Here’s a look at what’s on offer in Ohrid that’s not endangered.
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